Beaune 1er cru, Les Reversées, 90
Two barrels, of which one
new. Pale
yellow, an intriguing nose, shows a bit if oak of course, but still fresh and lively. Good weight to this, a little character , fair length. Less
anonymous than many a white Beaune.
Corton-Charlemagne, Grand
Cru, 92-94
Two barrels , one new. Ex Laleure Piot, on the Pernand side. The oak is very dominant at first, then some banana,
before the real Corton-Charlemagne emerges beneath. Rich fruit, a hair
too much oak, then a chiselled finish. Certainly persistent.
Beaune 1er cru, Les Teurons, 90-92
One barrel of very old vines. Glowing
purple, very reductive. Dense fruit through the middle though, this could be very good once the reduction
passes. Fine
acidity, dense
red and black fruit.
Beaune 1er Cru, Champs
Pimont, 91
Half whole bunch
fermentation which is typical of the Clos de la Chapelle style, except for the
two Volnays. Reduced again, but there is an appealing sweetness of fruit,
easygoing compared to the Teurons, middleweight, the finish toughened up by the reduction.
Volnay 1er Cru, En Carelle, 90-92
Badly frosted. Fresh purple, no stems, some oak and even a touch of coffee, one new barrel
out of three. Medium
weight red fruit
overlaid by its oak, some
wood tannins.
Volnay 1er Cru,
Clos de la Chapelle, Monopole, 92-94
From 55 year old vines.
middling depth of purple.
Light bacon fat
reduction , this is actually fine, balanced and
classy. A lovely core of classical Volnay fruit, extremely elegant, just that touch or reduction. Excellent classy finish.
Volnay
1er Cru, Taillepieds, 92-94
Very old vines. Incredibly rich dense purple, the nose
is super sumptuous, deeply satisfying, quite a lot of CO2 still, tight tannins, powerful and in
that sense atypical Volnay and maybe a touch too much oak. Very strict, very
structured, could
be fabulous.
Pommard 1er Cru, Les Chanlins, 91-93
Nearly 90 year old vines.
Four barrels made. Medium density pink
purple, a rich sweet powerful mouthful, sumptuous yet balance d,
not especially Pommard, certainly not the
tannins, half
whole bunch but it does not show,
unless it is that which stretches out
the finish.
Pommard 1er Cru, Grands Epenots, 90-92
Vigorous vines, but still only 3
barrels. Rich
purple, oaky, half whole bunch. Quite raw fruit behind, higher acidity, tighter and less
expressive . Fades
a bit at the back.
Corton Bressandes, Grand Cru, 92-94
Medium deep purple, reduction
again, a thread
of pure and even silky fruit before
the metallic finish. Half whole bunch fermentation adds a juiciness though if anything,
a mix of red and black fruit,
with a properly long finish.
