"As the scores and the review confirm, the
Domaine outperformed in 2017"
RED WINES
Beaune 1er cru Les Teurons
Moderate wood influence is present on
the fresh aromas of various red berries, plum and whiffs of violet. There is
both good richness and energy to the nicely detailed medium-bodied flavors that
conclude in a refined and transparent finish that is refreshing and inviting.
This is built on its fruit and should drink well young. 89 pts.
Beaune 1er cru Champs Pimont
Relatively prominent wood toast fights a bit with the
more deeply pitched and notably ripe aromas of plum liqueur, cassis and
discreet floral nuances. There is better mid-palate density to the seductively
textured medium-bodied flavors that deliver fine depth and persistence on the
mildly toasty finale. This velvety effort will need a few years to more
completely integrate its oak. 91 pts.
Volnay 1er cru En Carelle
Slightly more unobtrusive wood influence is present on
the more elegant and spicier mix of both red and blue pinot fruit. The finer
though not denser middle weight flavors that possess a sleek mouth feel where
an underlying minerality helps to add lift on the bitter cherry-inflected
finale where the oak reemerges. 90 pts.
Volnay 1er cru Clos de la Chapelle monopole
Here the wood treatment is no longer subtle as the
toast and menthol characters stop just short of dominating the otherwise fresh
and pretty rose petal and lavender-suffused aromas of red cherry and raspberry.
The lilting and ultra-refined flavors possess a lovely sense of underlying
tension before concluding in a lacy, balanced and sneaky long finish where the
tannins are firm but beautifully well-integrated. Note that my rating assumes
that the wood will eventually integrate as it's not a background element at
present. 92 pts.
Volnay 1er cru Taillepieds
Relatively deeply colored. There is plenty of wood
influence to the aromas of menthol, spice, orange peel and tea scents. The
slightly bigger and more powerful medium weight flavors exhibit even more
minerality on the tautly muscular and beautifully persistent finish that
reflects the typical youthful austerity of a classic Taillepieds. Excellent. 93 pts
Pommard 1er cru Les Chanlins vieilles vignes
Abundant
oak frames the ripe and fresh aromas of red currant, rose petal and plum that
are abundantly infused with spice and floral whiffs. I very much like the mouth
feel of the velvet-textured medium weight flavors that exhibit fine length on
the robust, powerful and impeccably well-balanced finale. This is quite serious
and firmly structured so patience advised. 91
pts
Pommard 1er cru Grands Epenots
Here the wood
influence is discreet though it must be said that it's far from a background
element on the red and blue pinot fruit-scented nose that is trimmed in copious
earth and spice characters. The delicious, supple and caressing yet powerful
medium-bodied plus flavors coat the palate with good amounts of dry extract on
the moderately austere and built-to-age finish. This offers excellent aging
potential and is a wine that will need extended patience. 93 pts
Corton Bressandes Grand Cru
A very toasty and menthol-suffused nose stops short,
if only just, of masking the pretty essence of various red berries, spice,
floral and earth scents. The broad-shouldered flavors are impressively rich
while possessing excellent size, weight and volume along with fine power and
driven on the highly persistent and very firm finish. I would add that despite being quite firmly
structured, this will probably be approachable after only 5 to 7 years if you
don't have the patience to cellar it for the longer-term. 93 pts
WHITE WINES
2017 Beaune 1er cru Les Reversées
(to
my knowledge the domaine is the only producer of Reversées blanc).
Relatively generous wood influence that includes hints of toast and vanilla
frame the moderately exotic-suffused aromas. There is excellent cut and energy
to the attractively textured medium weight flavors that exude a subtle bead of
minerality that carries over to the markedly dry, clean and focused finale.
This isn't especially complex but it may well add some additional depth with a
few years of bottle age. 89 pts
2017 Pernand-Vergelesses 1er cru Sous Frétille
This
too is generously oaked though the fruit profile is both cooler and airier with
its green apple, citrus and discreet floral wisps. The racy and notably intense
middle weight flavors possess impressive delineation and more evident
minerality along the excellent cut on the chiseled, dry and bitter
lemon-inflected finish. This is a bit woody for my taste but it offers fine
quality nonetheless. 91 pts
2017 Corton-Charlemagne
(from En Charlemagne in Pernand). Here the wood treatment is more subtle if by
no means invisible as it frames the petrol, citrus, green apple and soft spice
nuances. There is markedly more size, weight and mid-palate density to the
succulent but powerful flavors that culminate in a tightly wound finish. Unlike
the prior two wines that could reasonably be approached in their youth, this is
clearly going to require at least a few years of patience. 93 pts
