Quite a bit of mystery surrounds this monopole vineyard, as it was only officially named in 1937, and was not mentioned in Dr. Lavalle's original classifications.
It seems that it might have been part of the Clos de la Bousse d'Or, which lies just to the north of it, but the date and reason why the two vineyards were separated by a wall is unclear. The back wall, which makes it an official clos, was erected at a much later date, likely around the same time as the naming of the vineyard. The vineyard is part of the larger lieu-dit 1er Cru Le Village, which also includes the Clos de la Bousse d'Or.
2020 was the fourth in a row of warm, dry vintages that will probably be the new normal due to global warming I hesitate to say we are ‘used to it’ but we are no longer surprised and have made adjustments, particularly in vinfication. We are very happy with the result, but throughout the winemaking and the élevage we were cautious in our optimism. We had no winter, an early bud break and uneven flowering. We were worried about the heat and the lack of rain in the context of an expected small crop but the wines held up well. The cool nights helped and we are fortunate that our Pinot vines (except for Volnay 1er cru cuvée) average 60 years old with deep roots. We started picking on August 20th and finished the reds three days later. We even picked Corton Charlemagne (on the Pernand-Vergelesses side) on August 27th. Despite the ripeness, the grapes had excellent energy and the phenolic profile was well evolved. Even with 14 percent alcohols our wines finished with pH’s as low or lower than the four previous years. As we have practiced in recent vintages we exclusively used remontage during most of the vinification and finished with pigeages because we can better control finalizing extraction that way. We used less whole bunch than typical (about 10 – 15%) mainly because the style of vintage didn’t invite attenuation or distraction of any type. Vinification was relatively short, but at least 16 days. Malo was short and finished early. In the end we have very rich, even powerful, wines whose terroir is nevertheless unmistakable. We think the low pH and total acidity preserves that distinction. We ended up with 22 hl/ha for the reds and 35 hl/ha for the whites. For us 2020 combines elements of 2019, 2018 and 2003 – the best of those vintages. For those of a certain age I’m reminded of 1964.
The Volnay appellation is found mid-slope in the Côte de Beaune, with Pommard to the north and Meursault to the south. Although there are no Grands Crus here, Volnay's 30 Premiers Crus are unmatched. Always appreciated for their finesse and beautiful bouquet, Volnays are often regarded as being feminine.
This 1er Cru Monopole is one of the parcels that make up the appellation of Volnay 1er Cru "Le Village". The vineyard is 0.56 ha/ 1.4 acres, planted with 50 year old vines. The soil is primarily clayey limestone with white marl. In Burgundy the term "Clos" refers to a vineyard that is enclosed within a stone wall. The soil here is of limestone and marl, and is very distinct from that of the Clos de la Bousse d'Or. There the soil is much redder, and a meter lower - perhaps explaining the wall as a retainer, and the division of the two vineyards.
This is a fairly warm vineyard as it is quite small, with tall walls protecting it from cooling winds, and which reflect the sun's heat onto the vines. Such a microclimate generates early ripening and slightly lower acidities, yet here produces wine with elegance and good structure for aging. The organic and biodynamic practices being practiced here will also insure a lower pH.
In order to fully appreciate the aromas it is best to serve this wine between 15-16°C / 59-61°F.
An ideal pairing with lamb shank, duckling filet or sweetbreads with morels. Perfect as well to enjoy with triple cream cheeses such as Brillat-Savarin or Chaource.
