Quite a bit of mystery surrounds this monopole vineyard, as it was only officially named in 1937, and was not mentioned in Dr. Lavalle's original classifications.
It seems that it might have been part of the Clos de la Bousse d'Or, which lies just to the north of it, but the date and reason why the two vineyards were separated by a wall is unclear. The back wall, which makes it an official clos, was erected at a much later date, likely around the same time as the naming of the vineyard. The vineyard is part of the larger lieu-dit 1er Cru Le Village, which also includes the Clos de la Bousse d'Or.
Any optimism we had for a bounteous vintage for 2021 was dashed during les trois terribles of April 6, 7 and 8. With a wet May, strong mildew and oidium pressure flowed and we thought we were looking at another 2013 and we hadn’t had any hail…yet. But with two warm, sunny weeks in August (août fait le moût) our hopes for promising quality returned. Picking began on the 22nd of September and was finished by the 30th. Alcohols were all at about 12 degrees and we lightly chaptalized. We elected to vinify each appellation separately (apart from no Pommard 1er cru Grands Epenots at all) even though most quantities were just two barrels. (18 hl/ha for the reds and 27 hl/ha for the whites). However, we dramatically reduced whole cluster in order to better control temperature in the small vats. The maintenance of proper temperature meant that the total cuvaison duration was normal. Malo was delayed and so bottling for the reds was a few months later than typical. We found that this had the benefit of the wines putting extra weight while maintaining freshness. The results are a true delight for those who like classic ‘old style’ Burgundy. The reds remind us of 2000 (unfortunately with much less generosity!) and the whites like 2001 or 1993.
The Volnay appellation is found mid-slope in the Côte de Beaune, with Pommard to the north and Meursault to the south. Although there are no Grands Crus here, Volnay's 30 Premiers Crus are unmatched. Always appreciated for their finesse and beautiful bouquet, Volnays are often regarded as being feminine.
This 1er Cru Monopole is one of the parcels that make up the appellation of Volnay 1er Cru "Le Village". The vineyard is 0.56 ha/ 1.4 acres, planted with 50 year old vines. The soil is primarily clayey limestone with white marl. In Burgundy the term "Clos" refers to a vineyard that is enclosed within a stone wall. The soil here is of limestone and marl, and is very distinct from that of the Clos de la Bousse d'Or. There the soil is much redder, and a meter lower - perhaps explaining the wall as a retainer, and the division of the two vineyards.
This is a fairly warm vineyard as it is quite small, with tall walls protecting it from cooling winds, and which reflect the sun's heat onto the vines. Such a microclimate generates early ripening and slightly lower acidities, yet here produces wine with elegance and good structure for aging. The organic and biodynamic practices being practiced here will also insure a lower pH.
In order to fully appreciate the aromas it is best to serve this wine between 15-16°C / 59-61°F.
An ideal pairing with lamb shank, duckling filet or sweetbreads with morels. Perfect as well to enjoy with triple cream cheeses such as Brillat-Savarin or Chaource.
